May I introduce, the "Lillian" handbag. That's what I'm calling her. I was very much inspired by the J. Crew Signet bag which was everywhere last summer. The boxy shape has been all over this summer as well, with many brands introducing a version of it. I drafted my own version with a removable strap, a front zippered pocket, and four slip pockets inside.

This is 100% self drafted. All done by hand on paper with only the aid of a calculator to ensure that the gussets fit precisely around the rounded corners. Thank goodness for pi. 

I made a first-draft in a lightweight denim with medium/heavy weight fusible apparel interfacing and 1/8 inch piping. I quickly realized that the bag needed much more structure and the corners were too round. The photo above shows it stuffed with scraps and supported from behind to keep it upright. The final version below stands on its own.



I redrafted the corners to be a little less round and looked into my interfacing options. While Joann's was having a good sale, I bought both Pellon fusible foam interfacing and 71F interfacing. I tested swatches of them on the denim. It turned out that where my swatches overlapped was my favorite mix of structure and softness. This was my first time using either product, and I'm totally hooked on the structure it provides. I've applied the foam first, and then the stiff interfacing on top. 

Fabric: The body of the bag is a heavy black denim from the stash. The piping and strap are covered in a black cotton twill from the remnants bin at Joann's. The lining is a red and white striped printed quilting cotton from the stash. The small piece that ended up in the stash seems to be neverending, as this is the fourth project I've made with it. 

Hardware: I struggled to find appropriate hardware, but ended up with these gunmetal colored metal zippers and Dritz D-Ring/clasp kits.  I needed one strap adjuster and used a black plastic one from the stash. 

Other bits: The piping is 3/16" cotton/poly clothesline. The base of the strap is black 1" cotton webbing. The lining is interfaced with a variety of fusible apparel interfacings. A firmer one for the pockets and lighter for the rest. After I completed the bag, I sprayed it all with two hearty coats of Scotchgard. If nothing else, the treatment seems to have reduced the amount of lint the bag picks up.   I went through no fewer than four denim needles, three of them in quick succession while stitching the side where the top gusset, zipper, bottom gusset, and strap all meet. Apart from hand-stitching the lining inside, I hand-basted the piping to the sides and hand-basted the sides to the gusset. It was a time-consuming project, but I think I've already spent more time using it than making it. 

Improvements: When I make this again, I expect I'll make a number of changes.

• I need to re-draft the lining pieces. I cut this lining using the same dimensions as the outside, but due to the thickness of the foam the lining turned out very baggy. I crudely cut it down, but it would sit better if I were to account for the inner volume when cutting. 
• I would prefer different strap fasteners. These clasps turn all the way around. Often when I grab the bag it will be upside down and my purse detritus is on the ground! It's a good way to clean out the candy wrappers, at least.
• I would leave off the front pocket. It's bulky and I don't like how it distorts the shape. 
• The top zipper really should be stitched to the interfacing. I fused the interfacing to the gusset after inserting the zipper as it was easier to sew. However, I think the bag would benefit from a bit more structure along the zipper as it turned out a bit floppy. 
• I must get better at applying piping. I should have measured and marked the piping rather than just applying it freehand. I had to hand stitch the piping to secure it to the body because I couldn't manage to stitch it close enough with the machine. I probably need a special presser foot for larger piping to get a cleaner finish. 

I'm surprisingly excited to make another version of this bag. It's a great size for me as I can fit my wallet, keys, sunglasses case, snacks, lipshit, and phone inside. I'm thinking either a pastel or jewel-tone for the next version. Maybe with embroidery, applique, or patches to embellish the front instead of the pocket. Have you ever drafted your own handbag before? What did you learn?