It has come to my attention that many people have shared negative reviews of the Butterick 6101 Katherine Tilton tunic pattern, or have been unsatisfied with the results. I would like throw my two cents into the conversation and suggest how you, too, can successfully sew up this awesome pattern. I made mine up last Fall, and it was in regular rotation throughout the Fall/Winter/Spring. I'll be pulling it back out before long.

Before I get into my tips, a brief review. Butterick describes the pattern as "Loose-fitting pullover tunics have collar, left side pocket detail, sleeve variations, hem band and top stitching." However, there are awesome pocket details on both sides, not just the left. I don't think any written description can do justice to the amazing designs of the Tilton sisters. They are the epitome of art-teacher chic.


This pattern is fantastic, as I will say many times throughout this post. The pockets come together like magic. It has an unusual shape you don't often find in stores. Butterick lists the sewing rating as "Average". I would call it Adventurous Intermediate. You must have a good grasp of the spatial reasoning that goes into sewing (seeing how flat pieces are seamed into 3D garments), attention to detail, and a level of comfort/confidence when sewing with knits. If I had to change one thing about this I would take a bit of width off the back shoulder, but I can't see it when I wear it so it doesn't bother me that much.



Now. Here's my advice if you are adventurous enough to try this. You must make good choices regarding size selection and fabric.

Mistake #1: Bad fabric choices. The pattern calls for "lightweight woven and stable knit fabrics.FABRICS: Linen, Jerseys, Challis." If you try to use ponte knit or sweatshirt fleece, you're going to have a bad time. Just look at the photos on the cover; they all feature extremely drapey fabrics. That's what you want for this, a fabric which will drape closely to the body to balance the volume of the design. There are a lot of seams below the bust, and if you use a fabric with lots of body, and then layer it up through the seams, you're going to end up with stiff seams that don't lay nicely against the body.

I used a lightweight, almost sheer, poly/cotton burnout jersey. For a close-fitting top this fabric might be too lightweight, but the volume and drape of the tunic balance that out. The drape also conceals the pockets, the most interesting feature of this pattern.



Mistake #2: Size selection. This pattern gives you the option of using a knit or a woven. View B on the envelope appears to be a very lightweight linen blend. While I'd like to make something like that in the future, let's talk about sizing for knits since most people have chosen that option. You will likely want to cut a size that has very little ease. For reference, I typically cut Butterick patterns at around a 10, maybe sizing up to a 12 at the shoulder or hip depending on the style. For this garment, I made the XS, which is a 4-6 by Butterick's standards. It is still very roomy. The pattern has built in about 7" of ease at the bust and 10+ at the waist. I sized down and still have over 5" of ease at the waistline. When choosing your size, take a tee that fits you well and compare it to the flat pattern measurements at the shoulder and bust. I can imagine that unless you normally do a significant FBA, you could size down throughout the body, perhaps grading up at the shoulder if necessary. This is not a pattern that is easy to "take in" after you've basted it together, so take the time to consider the sizing before you cut. All of the pieces except the sleeves and neckband are unusually shaped, so you won't be able to easily adjust on the fly.

Also regarding size, think about your height! I think the pattern as drafted is a good tunic length for those 5'4" and taller, but it might be overwhelming on a shorter person. (Unless you have the bust to fill it out. I clearly do not). You will need to adjust for this before you cut, as the hem is shaped. If you need to take off (or add) length, you will have to do it around the waist area, above the pocket pieces. The pattern doesn't have lengthen/shorten guidelines so it will be a bit of extra work to take the length off evenly all the way around.

I hope to see many more versions of this tunic as we head into fall here in the Northern Hemisphere. Just remember to make fabric and size selections that are appropriate for the pattern and you'll improve your chances of success. If you have made this, please share it with me!